While most people think of robust beers during the winter, there is a wonderfully spicy alternative: Belgian witbiers (White Ales). And even though witbiers are often characterized as a spring/summer offering, their complex flavorings and spiciness make them the ideal counterpart to winter warmers. With varying hints of orange peel, coriander, white pepper and other spice, white ales are perfectly festive and delightfully light.
This week I had the opportunity to sample four witbiers from different breweries around the region.
Otter Creek White Sail Ale
Middlebury, VT
N/A ABV
Wafting a distinctly white ale aroma, this beer smells of orange and spice and everything nice. It pours a deliciously light color with some straggly sediment and haze characteristic of the style with a fluffy white head. But, regrettably, that’s where the praise stops. Fairly watery and void of the unique yeastiness of a white ale, Otter Creek’s offering is bland. The strong grainy notes of this beer override the intended spiciness and lead to a beer that falls flat. While it’s a drinkable ale, it’s more of a mediocre American Wheat than a wibier.
Long Trail Belgian White
Bridgewater Corners, VT
4.7 % ABV
Because I wanted to give Vermont brewers a chance to redeem themselves Otter Creek’s debacle, I picked up Long Trail’s spring/summer offering. Though this beer is typically available March through August, it’s not uncommon to find a straggler six-pack this time of year. This beer, unlike its counterpart, is all about taste – almost to a fault. Pouring an inviting gold with a fluffy white dome of head, this beer smells like a bowl of Fruity Pebbles and lemons, and its flavor isn’t far behind. A ridiculously drinkable and light beer, I can see why Long Trail pumps this beer out in the summer. With a strong lemony-cereal flavor, Long Trail’s Beligan White is ideal for those who aren’t into the more intense flavors of some Belgian Whites. The strong citrus flavor of this Belgian White negates (or at least holds hostage) the coriander this beer advertises.
Unibroue’s Blanche de Chambly
Quebec, Canada
5.0% ABV
Unibroue’s white ale is tremendously effervescent and has a pluming white head that sticks around for a while. With a more traditional aroma of lemon, spice and some background hops and grain, this beer smells more like tradition. Hazy with yeast sediment, this beer hits the style-mark perfectly in terms of appearance and wasn’t far off on taste either. Light bodied and perfectly carbonated, Blanche de Chambly balances fruit and spice. Distinct notes of coriander and peppery-goodness seep through this beer but aren’t overwhelming or forced. The crisp-dryness is a perfect alternative to the massive maltiness and cloying sweet taste of winter warmers. This beer does lack the yeasty fruit flavors of a good witbier, though, and is pretty expensive.
Southampton Publick House’s Double White Ale
Southampton, NY
7.0% ABV
Although originally leery of this higher-gravity version of the White Ale, I had to try it. Pouring the same golden-wheat color with a hazy tinge, this beer smelled more of citrus, apples and yeast than of alcohol – surprising given its gravity. Balanced and booming, Southampton Double White’s flavor was spot on with that I think of as a Belgian White. Acidic upfront with lots of lemon, the spiciness and background yeast flavors make this beer special. There’s plenty to grab onto with this beer and it got better with every swill. Surprisingly, the alochol is only noticeable in its final descent, which provides tingly warmth in the throat. This beer holds true to its style and, despite its times-two approach, makes for a good wintertime diversion.